
Episode #60
The Pope, Hemingway, and 'Moi' in Paris
By Brad Miner Late last year, my wife began carefully, meticulously planning a week-long trip to Paris for the whole family. She did so, as she noted to the other eight of us, because she meant to celebrate in style her upcoming "significant" birthday. She wisely decided on late September: the weather would be cooler and the crowds smaller. So, flights and hotel reservations were made, and restaurants and tours were booked. And then it was announced that, during our dates, Leo XIV would be in Paris; Fashion Week Paris would get underway; and Celine Dion would begin her "residency" at the Plenitude Arena. All that meant a plenitude of people in Paris. Oh, well . . . Still, the only real difficulty this caused us was on a private boat ride up the Seine. It was a glorious Friday afternoon, and the Eiffel Tower was as dramatic as you can imagine against the bright blue sky. But just as we were about to reach Notre-Dame and the Île de la Cité, a police boat appeared and demanded we turn the boat around. (Nothing dramatic, mind you – just a signal our "captain" understood.) The pope would soon be at the cathedral. Indeed, on September 24, 25th, and 26th, many places in Paris were designated périmètres de sécurité. Guides, drivers, and others often told us, "The pope is to blame." But that, of course, was untrue. He was a guest and a great boon to Catholic France. And Paris appeared as it must have before the 1905 institution of laïcité. In principle, that means France is (and the 1958 constitution states ) un État laïque, a secular state, although I'm told it's better to say France is neutral towards all religions. But that's the government, and the French people appear to be enthusiastic about Catholicism. The papal Mass at the Place de la Concorde filled the area around Avenue des Champs-Élysées with between 700,000 and 800,000 people. That is an impressive number, although in 1997, Pope St. John Paul II's closing Mass for World Youth Day (at Longchamp racecourse) drew over 1 million. Before, during, and after the papal visit, one saw clusters of Dominican sisters, sundry priests of various levels of ecclesiastical dignity, and many images of the Holy Father, so that Paris again seemed, if only briefly, the capital of the "Eldest Daughter of the Church." That phrase has its roots in the late 5th century, when St. Rémi baptized King Clovis. Throughout subsequent history, the Catholicism of France was unquestioned until the French Revolution of 1789-1799, and the nation has been sliding into deeper levels of secularism ever since. Thus did John Paul II, during his first papal visit to Paris in 1980, ask, "France, fille aînée de l'Église, es-tu fidèle aux promesses de ton baptême?" ("France, eldest daughter of the Church, are you faithful to the promises of your baptism?") In 2026, it remains an important question, one I can't answer. But in recent days, we certainly saw reasons for hope. I took a morning for myself, partly to visit churches and partly to wander the streets that Ernest Hemingway haunted in the 1920s. Hemingway had become a Roman Catholic but, by his own admission, was not a very good one. He was, after all, part of what his friend Gertrude Stein called the "Lost Generation," a comment made directly to Hemingway. He'd become Catholic (apparently after receiving catechetical instruction) so that he could marry Pauline Pfeiffer, a devout Catholic from Arkansas. This, of course, is where the "difficulty" of his Catholicism begins. He had been married previously in a civil ceremony, and it's unclear if his union with Pauline was strictly canonical, according to, ironically, the Pauline Privilege. Hemingway was a troubled person, no doubt. He would divorce Pauline and have two more wives after her. He was a distant parent to his three children. He would commit suicide (as his father had), and a Catholic priest would officiate at his funeral, although that cleric, Fr. Robert J. Waldmann, believed (as the press had repo...






